I wonder if people have a very polarized conception of me- either they find me very lucky, or very unlucky. The truth, like every single other person on the planet, is both. There are days when I attend hip parties and manage to be the coolest person in the room, and there are days when someone hits my car, denies it, and drives back to whatever corner of Illinois favors shit-brown BMW’s. I took photos, guy. This is an entirely normal phenomenon as far as I am concerned. Some days the collective consciousness bends over and sits on my chest and other days, it happily spoon-feeds me chocolate pudding enrobed in gold leaf.And when I fall out of whatever orbit of well-pressed shirts and decent writing I’ve accomplished and suddenly crash and burn into an acrid atmosphere of buttons falling off and restless sleep, I turn to limited-edition items for comfort and strength during these difficult times. On these days I usually like to throw caution to the wind and tell strangers that my birthday is close, closing with an elongated wink like the Log Lady at seventy. While Krispy Kreme has ceased their birthday celebration, they do have another duly appropriate treat for the displaced Yankee, a donut-based primer to two Southern specialty desserts, carrot cake and banana pudding. Wait, carrot cake, really? That shit is medieval. Then British. Then mod when it was popular in the sixties. Is there any particular Southern association that hummingbird cake couldn’t embody?The two flavors are true to their inception and manage to sit squarely in the intersection between donut and dessert- the carrot cake has a dense spice cake and carrot base, heavier on the nutmeg than the carrots and not as moist, with a cream cheese frosting and orange stripes of icing, but incorporates an extra layer of crunchy glaze that makes it more evocative of Krispy Kreme. For all the sugary components, the donut works surprisingly well, though I’d have liked to see more moistness in the cake itself.
The banana pudding donut was almost perfect. Were it not for the chewy, overly sweet glaze on top, a banana-flavored sludge textured like a Laffy Taffy melting in the sun, it would have been sublime. The yeast donut base was chewy and tender and the filling was fluffy, with a natural banana flavor and a richness to the texture like it had been made with freshly whipped cream. I’d have liked for the wafers on top to be crispier, as they melted into the donut and were indistinguishable as a result. That being said, it was definitely one of the better donuts I’ve had in a while, including some from independent shops in the area.